So, some clear marking out is called for here; generally the slope of the dovetails is represented by a gradient of 1:8 for hardwood and 1:6 or 7 for a softwood. The sliding bevel is used to mark this line after the tails have been set out along a gauged line to fit the width of the board to their most pleasing arrangement.
The dovetails are then cut with a small saw (rip-set teeth if possible) before transferring their profiles to the other part of the joint, in this case, the drawer fronts (see next post).
2 pairs of drawer sides, sliding bevel and dovetail saw
When you have access to a few tools and a basic knowledge of woodworking, there’s generally a job around that needs doing. This particular one is a pair of little drawers to replace the missing originals in a 3-piece dressing table mirror frame.
The drawers are going to be dovetailed (as it’s for a family member), and the first step is to cut and plane the drawer components to a nice fit – not too tight, not too loose. I’m using some Poplar here as it was ready to hand and my experiments showed it would take a stain to match the carcass.
The next step is all about precision marking out, but if you’d like to learn more about dovetails, there’s still a couple of places left on the Dovetail Box course starting in September. More on this project very soon..